TLB Forums: Cat stove in the wind?

Jason -

This new stand weighs about ½ oz. The docking socket is constructed as described in this article and is attached to the base using three aluminum pop rivets. I've also made versions of the socket that are attached using small brass screws from Home Depot.

Not to hijack this thread, but this is probably a good opportunity to note the other advantages of this new design:

1. The stand creates a wider base with fewer ground contact points, so the stove is a lot more stable with this stand than when it's used alone.

2. On highly vegetated or uneven ground, the stove can be further stabilized by staking it to the ground. I often insert a pair of slim tent stakes (I use titanium micro hook stakes at ~0.2 oz each) through the two holes in the base of the stand, then push them into the ground. This arrangement virtually eliminates any possibility of the stove tipping or blowing over. Without the stand, it's difficult to find a way to secure the stove using stakes. Hanging the hook ends over the top edge of the stove, for example, doesn't work since the combustion chamber is no longer sealed and the stove won't pressurize properly.

3. The docking socket feature allows different stoves to be used with the same stand since there's no permanent connection required between the stove and stand. The socket is tight enough, however, to hold the stove very securely. Removal of the stove from the stand is usually best done with a twisting motion.

4. The stand protects the bottom of the stove from damage. If the stove alone, for example, is placed on a gravel surface, the weight of a pot filled with water can sometimes push the bottom's soft aluminum into the sharp edges of stones, causing dents and possibly even punctures. The stand eliminates this hazard.

5. The airspace trapped under the stand base serves to insulate the stove from cold ground. Doing so solves pretty much eliminates the conductive heat losses to the ground that often ruin the performance of other alcohol stoves when used in cold weather. For use at really low temps, it's also possible to fill the base with fiberglass insulation for even better performance.

6. This same airspace also protects the surface under the Super Cat from the heat that's produced by the stove. I can now use the stove directly on my workbench without having to worry about cooking the surface. Also great for protecting the vegetation under the stove when used on the trail.

7. The base allows the effective use of the "snuffer cup" that's described in the original Super Cat article. The snuffer cup seals very well against the uniform surface of the base, and permits the stove to be easily and reliably extinguished at will. Great for saving fuel and also a significant safety feature. I now use a snuffer cup with a small wooden knob on top for easy handling. Well worth the extra ½ oz of weight, IMO.

8. And finally, the top of the stand base can serve as a priming pan for the stove. Adding a few drops of alcohol primer to the base just outside the wall of the stove helps the stove come up to operating temperature faster and also makes it easier to light the stove (especially in cold weather). Now, rather than having to reach over top edge of the stove with your match or lighter to ignite the alcohol fuel, it's possible to simply light the primer outside the stove (the flame quickly spreads inside). The design of the base can's bottom is also perfect since the outer ridge keeps the priming fuel from spilling over the edges.

Jim.

Note: Photos below repeated from earlier post for convenience.

Photo of stand alone shows docking socket on top:

Photo of stand with Super Cat plugged into docking socket:

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